Optimization of Eye Shadow Powder Formula Preparation of Buni Fruit Extract (Antidesma bunius L. Spreng) as Natural Dye
Authors
Neli Aulia Lestari , Wahida Hajrin , Eskarani Tri PratiwiDOI:
10.29303/jbt.v25i4.10140Published:
2025-11-01Issue:
Vol. 25 No. 4 (2025): Oktober-DesemberKeywords:
Buni fruit, Eye shadow powder, Natural dye, Simplex lattice designArticles
Downloads
How to Cite
Downloads
Metrics
Abstract
The use of synthetic dyes in cosmetics can cause side effects such as allergies. Therefore, the presence of natural dyes such as anthocyanins from berries is a safer alternative for the community. However, the stability of anthocyanins as natural dyes can be affected by pH. The purpose of this study was to determine the optimum concentration of citric acid and tartaric acid in eyeshadow powder preparations as pH stabilizers using the Simplex Lattice Design method. The research method used the sonication method. Then, the formulation results from running SLD were carried out and evaluated for particle size, adhesiveness, and pH. Data analysis used SLD to obtain the optimum formula. Then, the evaluation was carried out as before with additional evaluations of organoleptic tests, homogeneity and polish. Furthermore, the data were verified statistically with a one-sample t-test. The results obtained an extract yield of 22.9% and a positive anthocyanin content. Based on the SLD method, the optimum formula was obtained with a citric acid concentration of 1.49% and a tartaric acid concentration of 0.508%. Verification of the optimum formula showed no significant difference between the experimental response and the predicted response with a pH value of 5.75 ± 0.12; adhesive power of 11.66 ± 1.52%; and particle size of 126.32 ± 2.02 μm. The conclusion is that the optimum formula produces good physical characteristics and the verification results show agreement between the predicted response and the experimental results.
References
Amalu, N., dkk. (2024). Formulation and evaluation of face powder using cassava. IAJPS, 11(07), 157–168.
Anugraini, A., Syahbanu, I., & Melati, H. A. (2018). Pengaruh waktu sonikasi terhadap karakteristik selulosa asetat hasil sintesis dari sabut pinang. Jurnal Kimia Khatulistiwa, 7(3). https://jurnal.untan.ac.id/index.php/jkkmipa/article/view/25181
Arsyad, R., Amin, A., & Waris, R. (2023). Teknik Pembuatan Dan Nilai Rendamen Simplisia Dan Ekstrak Etanol Biji Bagore (Caesalpinia Crista L.) Asal Polewali Mandar. Makassar Natural Product Journal, 1(3), 138-147. https://doi.org/10.33096/mnpj.v1i3.47
Cahya, C. A. D., Silalahi, M., & Marbun, R. A. T. (2021). Seminar Pembuatan Sediaan Eyeshadow Compact Powder Dengan Ekstrak Daun Bayam Merah (Amaranthus Tricolor L.) Sebagai Pewarna Alami. Jurnal Pengmas Kestra (JPK), 1(2), 333-342. https://doi.org/10.35451/jpk.v1i2.896
Badriyah, L. (2024). Pengaruh perbedaan suhu maserasi terhadap prosentase rendemen ekstrak temu kunci (Boesenbergia rotunda L.). Jurnal Sintesis: Penelitian Sains, Terapan Dan Analisisnya, 51-60. https://doi.org/10.56399/jst.v5i1.180
Badan POM RI. (2014). Penggunaan Rhodamin B Pada Kosmetik. Depkes RI.
Badan POM RI. (2019). Persyaratan Teknis Kosmetika. Depkes RI.
Butar-Butar, M. E. T., Sianturi, S., & Fajar, F. G. (2022). Formulasi dan evaluasi blush on compact powder ekstrak daging buah naga (Hylocereus polyrhizus) sebagai coloring agent. Majalah Farmasetika, 8(1), 27-43. https://jurnal.unpad.ac.id/farmasetika/article/view/40591
Depkes RI. (2020). Farmakope Indonesia edisi IV. In Departemen Kesehatan Republik Indonesia.
Dewi, I. C. (2012). Perbandingan Sifat Fisis Bedak Tabur Berbahan Dasar Amilum Solani (Solanum tuberosum L.) dan Amilum Manihot (Manihot utilissima L.) dengan Pewarna Karotenoid dari Umbi Wortel (Daucus carota L.). Universitas Sanata Dharma.
Djaeni, M. (2017). Ekstraksi Antosianin dari Kelopak Bunga Rosella (Hibiscus Sabdariffa L.) Berbantu Ultrasonik : Tinjauan Aktivitas Antioksidan. Jurnal Aplikasi Teknologi Pangan, 6(3), 148-151. 10.17728/jatp.236
Dominica, D., & Handayani, D. (2019). Formulasi dan Evaluasi Sediaan Lotion dari Ekstrak Daun Lengkeng (Dimocarpus Longan) sebagai Antioksidan. Jurnal Farmasi Dan Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia, 6(1), 8–16. https://doi.org/10.20473/jfiki.v6i12019.1-7
Fatmawati, F., Studi Farmasi, P., & Tinggi Farmasi Bandung, S. (2017). Analisis Pb Pada Sediaan Eyeshadow dari Pasar Kiaracondong dengan Metode Spektrofotometri Serapan Atom. In Jurnal Kesehatan Bakti Tunas Husada (Vol. 17). https://ejurnal.universitas-bth.ac.id/index.php/P3M_JKBTH/article/view/226
Fitri, Z. A., Ambarwati, N. S. S., & Jubaedah, L. (2020). Pemanfaatan Ekstrak Kental Kulit Batang Secang (Caesalpinia sappan L) Sebagai Zat Pewarna Pada Sediaan Blush On Compact. Jurnal Tata Rias, 10(1), 2-3. 10.21009/10.1.6.2009
Hajrin, W., Subaidah, W. A., Juliantoni, Y., & Wirasisya, D. G. (2021). Application of Simplex Lattice Design Method on The Optimisation of Deodorant Roll-on Formula of Ashitaba (Angelica keiskei). Jurnal Biologi Tropis, 21(2), 501–509. https://doi.org/10.29303/jbt.v21i2.2717
Handayani, N. M., Meylina, L. , & Narsa, A., C. (2019). Formulasi Sediaan Blush Cream Dari Ekstrak Biji Kesumba Keling (Bixa Orellana (L.)) Sebagai Pewarna Alami. . Proceeding Of Mulawarman Pharmaceutical Conference., 127–129. https://doi.org/10.30872/mpc.v10i.103
Harborne, J. B. (. (1996). Phytochemical Methods : A Guide to Modern techniques of Plant. Chapman and Hall.
Hidayat, I. R., Zuhrotun, A., & Sopyan, I. (2021). Design-expert software sebagai alat optimasi formulasi sediaan farmasi. Majalah Farmasetika, 6(1), 99-120. https://doi.org/10.24198/mfarmasetika.v6i1.27842
Iskandar, B., Ernilawati, M. (2022). Formulasi Blush On Stick dengan Zat Pewarna Alami Ekstrak Kering Buah Naga Merah (Hylocereus polyrhizus L.). Cendekia journal of pharmacy. 5(1), 70-80. https://doi.org/10.31596/cjp.v5i1.117
Isnaeni I, R. (2021). Uji Stabilitas Kopigmentasi Asam Sitrat-Antosianin Ekstrak Etanol Kulit Buah Naga Merah (Hypomeres Caesariensis) Pada Berbagai Ph Dan Temperatur (Doctoral dissertation, STIKes BTH Taskmalaya).
Kaur, R., Gulati, M., & Singh, S. (2022). Recent advances in evaluation of cosmetic powders: Quality control and performance testing. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(3), 1237–1245. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14076
Khoo, H. E., Azlan, A., Tang, S. T., & Lim, S. M. (2017). Anthocyanidins and anthocyanins: Colored pigments as food, pharmaceutical ingredients, and the potential health benefits. Food & Nutrition Research, 61(1), 1361779. https://doi.org/10.1080/16546628.2017.1361779
Latifah, F., & Iswari, R. (2013). Buku Pegangan Ilmu Pengetahuan Kosmetik. Gramedia Pustaka Utama.
Luginda, R. A., Sari, B. L., & Indriani, L. (2018). Pengaruh Variasi Konsentrasi Pelarut Etanol Terhadap Kadar Flavonoid Total Daun Beluntas (Pluchea indica (L.) Less) Dengan Metode Microwave Assisted Extraction (MAE). Jurnal Online Mahasiswa Bidang Farmasi, 1(1). https://jom.unpak.ac.id/index.php/Farmasi/article/view/722
Maoka, T. (2020). Carotenoids and anthocyanins as natural antioxidants. Natural Product Communications, 15(5), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1177/1934578X20912465
Mawarda, A., Samsul, E., & Sastyarina, Y. (2020). Pengaruh Berbagai Metode Ekstraksi dari Ekstrak Etanol Umbi Bawang Tiwai (Eleutherine americana Merr) terhadap Rendemen Ekstrak dan Profil Kromatografi Lapis Tipis. Proceeding of Mulawarman Pharmaceuticals Conferences, 11, 1–4. https://doi.org/10.30872/mpc.v11i.203
Mitsui, T. (1997). New Cosmetic Science. Amsterdam : Elsevier Science B.V.
Nasrullah, N., Husain, H., & Syahrir, M. (2020). Pengaruh Suhu Dan Waktu Pemanasan Terhadap Stabilitas Pigmen Antosianin Ekstrak Asam Sitrat Kulit Buah Naga Merah (Hylocereus polyrizus) Dan Aplikasi Pada Bahan Pangan. Chemica: Jurnal Ilmiah Kimia Dan Pendidikan Kimia, 21(2), 150–162. https://doi.org/10.35580/chemica.v21i2.17985
Octaviani, L. F. , & Rahayuni, A. (2014). Pengaruh berbagai konsentrasi gula terhadap aktivitas antioksidan dan tingkat penerimaan sari buah buni (Antidesma bunius) . (Doctoral Dissertation, Diponegoro University).
Panwar, A., Puspitasari, R. A., & Fitriana, R. (2024). Optimasi Proses Ekstraksi Pektin dari Lemon Albedo sebagai Upaya Pemanfaatan Limbah Buah. Industria: Jurnal Teknologi dan Manajemen Agroindustri, 13(1), 85–97. https://publikasi.polije.ac.id/jii/article/view/5705
Pramudia, C., Hanifa, N. I., & Ridwan, S. (2024). Formulasi Sediaan Blush On Powder Dari Ekstrak Buah Buni (Antidesma Bunius L. Spreng). Jurnal Kesehatan Tambusai, 5(2), 5044-5055. https://doi.org/10.31004/jkt.v5i2.27867
Pratama, R., Mulki, M. A., Saputro, M. R., Sani, A. R., & Awaliyah, R. S. R. (2024). Pengaruh eksipien terhadap sifat fisik granul effervescent. An-Najat, 2(1), 137-154. https://doi.org/10.59841/an-najat.v2i1.1071
Priska, M., Peni, N., Carvallo, L. & Ngapa, Y. D., 2018. Riview: Antosianin dan Pemanfaatannya. Cakra Kimia, 2(6), pp. 79-97. https://jurnal.harianregional.com/cakra/id-46629
Rachmawati, W., Damayanti, S., & Mulyana, A. (2014). Identifikasi zat warna rhodamin B pada kosmetik pemerah pipi dan eye shadow dengan metode KLT dan KCKT. Jurnal Farmasi Galenika, 1(2), 71–72. https://journal.bku.ac.id/jfg/index.php/jfg/article/view/22
Rahmadianti, E., Hutauruk, R. A., Yuwono, Y. S., Natalisa, D. E., Krisnawati, M., & Ratri, P. A. (2025). Eksplorasi Makeup Pengantin Internasional: Studi Komparatif Antara Gaya Korea dan Arab. Jurnal Multidisiplin Ilmu Akademik, 2(3), 556-564. https://doi.org/10.61722/jmia.v2i3.4957
Rahim, F., Elmitra, E., & Abdillah, F., M. (2022). Formulasi Sediaan Bedak dari Ekstrak Terpurifikasi Buah Tomat (Solanum lycopersicum L). Prosiding Seminar Kesehatan. 5(2), 27-28. https://jurnal.upertis.ac.id/index.php/PSKP/article/view/943
Ramdhini, R. N. (2023). Standardisasi Mutu Simplisia Dan Ekstrak Etanol Bunga Telang (Clitoria ternatea L.). Jurnal Kesehatan: Jurnal Ilmiah Multi Sciences, 13(1), 32-38. https://doi.org/10.52395/jkjims.v13i1.360
Ramani, S., Cahaya Himawan, H., & Kurniawati, N. (2021). Formulasi Sediaan Blush On Ekstrak Kayu Secang (Caesallpinia Sappan L) Sebagai Pewarna Alami Dalam Bentuk Powder. Jurnal Farmamedika., 6(1), 3–5. https://doi.org/10.47219/ath.v6i1.117
Redhita, L. A., Beandrade, M. U., Putri, I. K., & Anindita, R. (2022). Formulasi dan Evaluasi Nanoemulsi Ekstrak Daun Kemangi (Ocimum basilicum L.) dengan Variasi Konsentrasi Tween 80D. Jurnal Mitra Kesehatan, 4(2), 80– 91. https://doi.org/10.47522/jmk.v4i2.134
Rowe, R. C., Sheskey, P. J., & Quinn, M. E. (2009). Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients. London : Pharmaceutical Press.
Sampebarra, A. L. (2018). Karakteristik zat warna antosianin dari biji kakao non fermentasi sebagai sumber zat warna alam. Jurnal Industri Hasil Perkebunan, 13(1), 63-70. 10.33104/jihp.v13i1.3880
Sari, R., Nurbaeti, S. N., & Pratiwi, L. (2016). Optimasi kombinasi karbopol 940 dan HPMC terhadap sifat fisik gel ekstrak dan fraksi metanol daun kesum (Polygonum minus Huds.) dengan metode simplex lattice design. Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(2), 2. https://scholarhub.ui.ac.id/psr/vol3/iss2/2/
Sari, S. W., Djamil, R. , & Faizatun. (2021). Formulation of Blush Preparations by Using Natural Coloring From Red Beetroot Extract (Beta vulgaris l.). Indonesian Journal of Chemistry, 21(4), 860–870. https://doi.org/10.22146/ijc.60414
Senduk, T. W., Montolalu, L. A., & Dotulong, V. (2022). The rendement of boiled water extract of mature leaves of mangrove Sonneratia alba. Jurnal Perikanan Dan Kelautan Tropis, 11(1), 9-15. https://doi.org/10.35800/jpkt.11.1.2020.28659
Setiawan, R., Masrijal, C. D. P., Hermansyah, O., Rahmawati, S., Sari, R. I. P., & Cahyani, A. N. (2023). Formulasi, Evaluasi dan UJi Stabilitas Fisik Sediaan Gel Antioksidan Ekstrak Tali Putri (Cassytha filiformis L). Bencoolen Journal of Pharmacy, 3(1). https://doi.org/10.33369/bjp.v3i1.27649
Sharma, N., Kaur, S., & Kumar, S. (2018). Topical Powder Formulations and Evaluation Parameters: An Overview. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(12), 5150–5156. https://doi.org/10.13040/IJPSR.0975-8232.9(12).5150-56
Suriati, L., Hidalgo, H. A., Mangku, I. G. P., Datrini, L. K., & Red, J. (2022). Produk Inovatif Minuman Fungsional Aloe- Buni. SCOPINDO MEDIA PUSTAKA.
Susianti, N., Juliantoni, Y., & Hanifa, N. I. (2021). Optimasi sediaan gel ekstrak buah belimbing wuluh (Averrhoa bilimbi L.) dengan variasi basis karbopol 940 dan cmc-na. Acta Pharmaciae Indonesia: Acta Pharm Indo, 9(1), 44-57. 10.20884/1.api.2021.9.1.3669
Syamsinar., Saputri, N., Risnayanti., & Nisa, M. (2018). Mikroenkapsulasi Ekstrak Buah Buni Sebagai Food Safety Colouring. Pharmacy Medical Journal. 1(2), 77-78. https://doi.org/10.35799/pmj.1.2.2018.21654
Taufik, I. I., Soewandhi, S. N., & Nugraha, Y. P. (2023). Optimasi Formula Emulgel Vitamin C dengan Pendekatan Simplex Lattice Design. Jurnal Sains 65 Farmasi & Klinis, 10(1), 145. https://doi.org/10.25077/jsfk.10.1.145- 154.202
Tyas, D. A. K., & Saryanti, D. (2023). Optimasi CMC Na dan Carbopol dalam Sediaan Gel Ekstrak Etanol Daun Ketapang (Terminalia cattapa L.) dengan Metode Simplex Lattice Design. Jurnal Sains Dan Kesehatan (J. Sains Kes.), 5(6), 992–1002. 10.25026/jsk.v5i6.1838
Priani, S. E., Septian, M. T., & Soewondo, B. P. (2023). Optimasi Transcutol dan Propilenglikol Sebagai Peningkat Penetrasi dalam Gel Natrium Diklofenak Menggunakan Simplex Lattice Design. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon 68 Indonesia, 9(1), 87–93. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v9i1.307
Wang, H., Liu, Y., Wei, S., Yan, Z., Wang, Q., & Yang, J. (2021). Anthocyanins as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients: recent trends and advances. Phytotherapy Research, 35(11), 6132–6149. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.7221
Wijaya, A., & Noviana, N. (2022). Penetapan Kadar Air Simplisia Daun Kemangi (Ocimum basilicum L.) Berdasarkan Perbedaan Metode Pengeringan. Jurnal Riset Kefarmasian Indonesia, 4(2), 185-194. https://doi.org/10.33759/jrki.v4i2.246
Wulandari, D., Gusrizal, G., & Zaharah, T. A. (2020). Optimasi dan Validasi Metode Penentuan Kadar Asam Glikolat dan Asam Tartrat Dalam Krim Menggunakan Kromatografi Cair Kinerja Tinggi. ALCHEMY Jurnal Penelitian Kimia, 16(1), 10-24. https://doi.org/10.20961/alchemy.16.1.34008.10-24
Yuan, Y. et al. (2023). Stabilizing particle size in natural pigment powders using organic acid buffers. Int. J. Cosmetic Sci., 45(1), 45–52.
License
Copyright (c) 2025 Neli Aulia Lestari, Wahida Hajrin, Eskarani Tri Pratiwi

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Jurnal Biologi Tropis is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
The copyright of the received article shall be assigned to the author as the owner of the paper. The intended copyright includes the right to publish the article in various forms (including reprints). The journal maintains the publishing rights to the published articles.
Authors are permitted to disseminate published articles by sharing the link/DOI of the article at the journal. Authors are allowed to use their articles for any legal purposes deemed necessary without written permission from the journal with an acknowledgment of initial publication to this journal.
























